Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Laptsa Pass

After breakfast we start a guided tour to several medieval and spiritual sites in Kathmandu which are also listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites including the historic Durbar Square, the sacred Hindu temple of Pashupati Nath, the famous ‘Monkey Temple’ (Swayambhunath) and Buddhists shrine (BouddhaNath) which is one of the large Stupas in the world. Later after sightseeing program, we will introduce you with your trekking guide and have a small pre-trip meeting. You can also take an opportunity to hire/buy any last minute trekking equipment or bargain for your souvenirs at the many stores. You are advised to pack your things and be set up for your actual Island Peak Climbing adventure that will begin the next day.

Accommodation: City Hotel
Included Meal: B

Wake up at dawn and be ready for the adventure. We escort you to domestic terminal of Kathmandu airport for an early morning flight. After an adventurous 35 minutes flight above the array of beautiful green and white mountains, we arrive at the Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla (2,800m/9,186ft), an entry town from where your trek begins. This is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world concluding in a dramatic landing site on a hillside surrounded by high mountains peaks. In Lukla, we meet our additional crew members and do some packing and arrangements. You will walk through the jungle down to Surke then a bit ahead you will have lunch near Pakhapani or so. Continuing ahead through many traditional villages, jungles, hills and gradually reaches Chutang for the first overnight rest in mountain.

Walking time 2-3hrs
Accommodation: Basic tehouse
Included Meals: B, L, D

Today is our first acclimatization day. To let time for our body to adapt with the altitude we spend two nights at Chutanga. For acclimatization, we are supposed to trek to higher elevations nearby. Tomorrow we will cross the big pass Zatra-la, so we hike today to neary by hills for acclimatization.

Accommodation: Basic tehouse
Included Meals: B, L, D

We start after brealfast on 1300m ascent to the Zatwra then a short traverse to the Zatwra La pass proper. As you are still not acclimatized it is generally a hard walk, even if the conditions are good (no snow). If there is snow, Zatrwa La can get considerable amount of snow and you might need to use crampons and ice axes as well as install fixed ropes to safeguard porters. Once at the pass it is only a short steep descent to Thuli Kharka (big pasture) where there are several basic lodges.

Walking time 6-7 hrs
Accommodation: Basic tehouse
Included Meals: B, L, D

A sunny morning gives us great views of the pass we left behind. We traverse three ridges until we find ourselves high above the Hinku river. With a bit of luck you can then see the impressive south face of Mera Peak. From here a long steep descent on a narrow trail drops steeply through the rhododendrons and forests of moss-covered pines to the edge of the huge scar left by the devastating bust of a natural dam above Tagnag in 1998. From there the trail climbs gradually following the river and crossing a broad ridge of mixed forest you reach a sandy boulder choked area known as Khote.

Walking time 5-6 hrs
Accommodation: Basic tehouse
Included Meals: B, L, D

Our trail continues alongside the riverbed through thick rhododendron forest. Care has to be taken, as there are many loose boulders on this section. We continue on the east bank of the Hinku Drangka. Just above the confluence of the Hinku and Sanu Drangka rivers the valley widens providing excellent views of Kusum Kangguru (6369m) and Peak 43 (6769m), at the head of the valley. The trail continues up the left bank to Tangnag (4366m), a summer settlement that has grown into a small hamlet of teashops.

Walking time 5-6 hrs
Accommodation: Basic tehouse
Included Meals: B, L, D

Today we head towards Khare. We follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka, which offers spectacular views of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines and to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers and then climbs more steeply to your camping spot at Khare. The camping experience at Khare is something that would cherish you throughout your life. It is pleasure to view beautiful North face of Mera Peak from Khare.

Walking time 3-4 hrs
Accommodation: Basic tehouse
Included Meals: B, L, D

Today after a breakfast, you will prepare your gear for ice climbing just above the Khare and need to walk couple of hrs from where there are good views of the Mera La and the route up the mountain. You will get some time for practicing few hours of Ice climbing. Your leader will teach you and instruct you about using the climbing gears and climbing techniques. After few hours of practicing at the glacier, you stroll back to camp and after final preparation of our equipment and packing of our mountain bags you will have overnight rest in the camp in Khare.

Accommodation: Basic tehouse
Included Meals: B, L, D

Very short trek in slow speed to allow much acclimatization you will make your way to Mera Base Camp. First climbing to the crest of the moraine above Khare and then up a steep slope of snow to reach a boulder strewn bowl below the lower tongue of the Mera Glacier. Reaching the pass Mera La (5,415m/17,766ft) allows us to see spectacular views; we then descend 100m (328ft) towards the Hongu side and set up base camp in the moraine below the ice and we overnight in Mera Base Camp.

Walking time 3-4 hrs
Accommodation: camping
Included Meals: B, L, D

We put on your crampons on again. You climb back up to the pass at Mera La then head up the glacier towards a rocky outcrop where we set the most spectacular high camp. Way to Mera High Camp can sometimes be hazardous, especially if it has recently snowed, as there are a number of crevasses here. From the high camp, the mountain the views are incredible. Kangchenjunga is visible to the east above the ridge of Chamlang; the ice spire of Baruntse is at the left of Makalu. Between Baruntse and the beautiful twin peaks of Ama Dablam, you will see Nuptse, Lhotse’s south face and Lhotse Shar. Over the ridge stands the summit of Everest piercing the skyline. This evening we overnight in Mera High Camp.

Walking time 4-5 hrs
Accommodation: Camping
Included Meals: B, L, D

Our Sherpa will wake you up at about 2 am with hot tea and we all will have a high energy meal before starting the summit ascent of Mera Peak. Starting through the main glacier, crossing to the south side we approach the snow hump-back ridge. This part of the route is not technical but 30 degree slopes are still tough. The slope steepens for a section behind the ridge and then you swing diagonally westward. The summit comes back into view and you are on the level summit ridge. At the foot of the final steep ascent you will attach to a fixed rope laid by your guide and use your ice axe and a jumar to climb the final 30 metre 55 degree pitch to reach Mera Peak’s summit. A spectacular panorama greets you with clear views over to Everest. Once you’ve had chance to take this all in and congratulate yourself on an amazing achievement, and then we will descend into the Hongu Valley, down to Kongma Dingma.

Walking time 6-7 hrs
Included Meals: B, L, D

This day we use to keep as a spare day, set aside in case we have to postpone the attempt on the peak because of bad weather or because some of us have not acclimatized well enough to make the ascent. If we are successful in making the summit on day 14, we use this day for another Ice climbing day or spent one more night at village of Lukla.

Overnight in tent
Accommodation: Camping
Included Meals: B, L, D

We continue to trek through the Hongu Valley, a very high and remote valley with no inhabitants. Real wilderness, real remoteness can be felt in this beautiful valley. Huge flanks of Mt. Chamlang dominate on our left, and the spire of Baruntse comes into view beyond. The environment is remarkably compassionate, especially considering we are actually heading directly into the very epicenter of the highest group of mountains in the world. The valley floor remains broad and straight, only gradually rising to the blind alley of peaks ahead. It is almost a shock to realize that the two majestic mountains we are heading straight towards are none other than Everest and Lhotse. We climb steadily up to and just beyond Seto Pokhari and camp there. Seto Pokhari means White Lake, the water in the lake is white may be due to ice conditions.

Overnight in tented camp at Seto Pokhari.
Walking time 3-4 hrs
Accommodation: Camping
Included Meals: B, L, D

We trek through one of the remotest part of the Himalaya today. We rarely meet any trekkers if its not a high tourist season. We enjoy and experience the wilderness of the Honku Valley We walk through the high altitude trail from Seto Pokhari to Amphu Lapcha high Camp. On the trail today, on our right is Mt. Chamlang (7321m) with hanging glaciers on its South-West and North-West faces. Passing beneath the giant west face of Chamlang we follow the Hongu Khola and finally the Hongu Glacier to the religious site of Panch Pokhri (five lakes). Today we trek to Amph Labsta’s south side Base Camp and come face to face with this gigantic and technical obstacle that we must cross tomorrow along with 360 degree view of great mountains. Overnight campaing at Amphu Lapcha high camp.

Walking time 4-5 hrs
Accommodation: Camping
Included Meals: B, L, D

Today, we have a real day of challenge ahead of us. On the South side the pass is a interesting traverse of scree slopes and layered glacier wall that we have to ascend. We trek along a fantastic icefall to the crest of the pass at 5850m. Here we have stunning views of Island Peak, Lhotse and Nuptse looming over the Imja Valley. The descent down to the valley is steep with a section that we negotiate by abseiling; looking back it will be quite an awesome feeling. We carry on descending on moraine to camp beside the Imaja Glacier and enter the Imja Valley where we spend the night.

Walking time 7-8 hrs
Accommodation: Camping
Included Meals: B, L, D

It’s the easy gradual trail up to Island Peak Base Camp. We cross a river and follow the valley for approx 3 hour.  Passing beneath the magnificent south face of Lhotse. Base camp is by the side of the Imja glacier, below steep grassy slopes which mark the start of the climb on Island Peak. From Island Peak Base Camp the trail is moderately steep. First, we climb south then turn east to the contour of the valley. We then walk on a zigzag path below the southern flank of Lhotse Glacier moraine. We continue walking on a pleasant trail along a streamside. At southeast, we see the Amphu Labtsa route. A network route through the Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines leads to a spacious valley (Pareshaya Gyab) nearby the southwest side of Island Peak where we will set our tents. After a brief rest, our climbing guide will instruct you the methods of using climbing equipments and some technical climbing skills. Along with practical knowledge on using climbing gears like ice axe, climbing boots and crampons, harness, ascender, etc., you will also learn using ropes to go up and down. Although it is not mandatory to have prior training for Island Peak Climbing, we strongly believe that some training will boost your confidence and climbing skills to increase the chances of scaling the summit safely together with a fun experience.

Walking time: 4-5 hrs
Accommodation: Camping
Included Meals: B, L, D

The push for the summit starts very early in the morning, mostly it starts before 3 a.m. in the morning. The climbing guide will fix all the safety lines wherever necessary and will be close taking care of you. A steep long ascent finally ends at the top and after a short stay at the top to enjoy the panorama of mountains; we climb down to Island Peak Base Camp for overnight.

Walking time 7-8 hrs
Accommodation: Camping
Included Meals: B, L, D

Today, we must feel a lot better with gradual drop in altitude. Breathing is much easier. From Island Peak Base camp, we walk occasionally through some glacier moraines until we reach the village of Chukung. Then following the river and the moraine we descend to Dingboche. Notice the change in shape of Amadablam today as we are too near of it. Under the shadows of Ama Dablam the valley narrows, we cross a suspension bridge and reach Shomare and continue to Pangboche. We have a lunch and relax time at Pangboche. We continue toward Tengboche. We The trail to Tengboche is through beautiful rhododendron forest. The trail until Deboche from Pangboche is popular as ‘Musk Deer Way’ as you can spot musk deer this part of the way. Watch for the other Himalayan faunas too. Today is a lovely trek through dense vegetation after many days of trek through the barren himalayan landscape. Upon reaching Tengboche, you may visit the Tengboche Monastery and participate in the daily ceremony there.

Walking Time: 5-6 hrs
Accommodation: Local Lodge
Included Meals: B, L, D

The walk today is in the shadow of the pine trees and rhododendrons forest that line these well-trodden trails. Watch out for faunas such as mountain goats, snow leopards, colorful pheasants, etc too in these trails. After several ups and downs we come near by the army camp at Namche Bazzar from where we take last look at the Everest which will be no more visible ahead on this back trek. On reaching our lodge at Namche, we take a nice hot shower that will help relief our tired muscles. You will have a very relaxed sleep in one of the room with attached bathroom in Namche Bazaar. Tucked away between two ridges amidst the giant peaks of the Khumbu, Namche Bazzar is centre of Everest region and has plenty of lodges, tea shops, souvenir shops, money exchangers, government offices, ATMs, Internet cafes, restaurants, bakeries, etc. You can also even enjoy colorful market each Friday evening and Saturday. You can visit Visitor Center near the headquarter of the Sagarmatha National Park where you can observe an assortment of things allied to the first Everest ascenders, Sherpa culture and learn about the various flora and fauna of the Sagarmatha National Park. Or you may just opt to relax in your room as you are just back from several very strenuous days. We chose your stay at Namche Bazzar today as its a beautiful Sherpa town to observe, roam around and relax. If you like to trek more, you may opt to trek down to Monjo to make your next days trek short.

Walking Time: 3 hrs
Accommodation: Local Lodge
Included Meals: B, L, D

Today the trail goes steeply downwards, so we need to walk carefully having control over our shaky legs. After again multiple crossings over the prayer flags festooned suspension bridges over the fast flowing Dudh Koshi and its tributaries, the trail becomes more level and natural. The more we trek downwards the more we feel easier to breathe as the air gets denser. Any remaining sore throats and colds will be gone by today. Although we are following the same route down, we feel completely different views with open plains, rhododendron and pine forests, and in the distance snow covered peaks. We inspect the impressive Sherpa and their Buddhist culture advised by the ancient monasteries, chhortens, mani stones, and prayer flags swathed in Sherpa homes, villages, bridges and the trails which are believed to spread goodwill and compassion in the space with their fluttering. Upon arrival in Lukla, stretch those sore legs and summon up the experiences of the last couple of weeks. We celebrate our successful and safe trek with the crew.

Walking Time: 6–7 hrs
Accommodation: Local Lodge
Included Meals: B, L, D

A morning flight drops us in Kathmandu. Flights to Kathmandu are usually scheduled for morning because wind can create problem to fly the aircraft after noon. But sometimes the flight can be delayed and even canceled due to bad weather and other reasons that are beyond our control. You will be transferred to hotel in Kathmandu after arrival in Kathmandu. You can rest in your hotel, could do some last minute shopping and packing, or stroll around Thamel.

Flying Time: 35 minutes
Accommodation: City Hotel
Included Meal: B, D

Today your Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Laptsa Pass trip comes to an end. If you have more time you can do some shopping or sightseeing. Approximately 3 hours before your scheduled flight a representative from Icicles Adventure Treks & Tours will take you to the airport for your flight back home. We are sure our service and the Nepal Himalayas has captivated you to come back again!

Included Meals: B